When greenwashing meets fast fashion, a perfect disaster

After the collapse of the 8-story building, horrific scenes of the crumbled structure, dead bodies and amputated limbs went around the world leaving consumers in the global North in shock. Was this the place where people's favourite brands are produced? Yes, this was a reality, and it still is. Fast fashion comes at a price, both from an environmental and social point of view.

Back in 2013, the term sustainability was only beginning its ascension and most customers of Zara, Mango, Primark, C&A, Benetton, who are all known to be brands that produced their garments at Rana Plaza at very low cost, didn't bother much about the issues in manufacturing conditions. Gladly, - or should we rather say sadly - the Rana Plaza accident marked a turning point, at least to some extent. All eyes were suddenly on the garment workers in Bangladesh, but also China and other countries in the global South, who earn barely enough to survive while consumers in the global North go on shopping sprees, or since the coming to power of TikTok, shopping hauls, at the lowest possible prices. Long before fair fashion, sustainability, circular economy or even cradle to cradle became a thing, social justice suddenly mattered in the eyes of a consumer. There was consensus that working conditions for the garment workers should improve. It wasn't until later that the environmental impact of one of the most polluting industries on the planet became a hot topic too.

"Believe it or not, SHEIN adds new clothes to its website every day! Yes, you read that right - every single day! This means that fashion lovers can find something new and exciting every time they visit SHEIN's site or app". The goal here is to create an addiction to buying new at an unprecedented frequency. Consumers are constantly on the hunt for the newest trends and thus spend copious amounts of money in order to stay hip. In response to a majority with limited funds to maintain this habit, clothes had to be cheap. The production cheap clothes at such a speed therefore comes at a cost, namely for the garment workers and the environment.

Working conditions in this industry are far from healthy. With over 60% being women, most don't earn a living wage - not to be confused with the minimum wage, which is sometimes paid but is not sufficient for a decent life. Salaries are often overdue or not even paid at all while workers are expected to work extremely long hours without health insurance or paid leave. Some of the worst cases refer to child labour and or modern slavery. For example, such situations in Uyghur in China. What's more, some of these industries are exposed to toxic fumes or liquids with detrimental effect on respiratory systems.

At the same time, the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of the global greenhouse gas emissions, more than shipping and aviation (!) COMBINED. Production and manufacturing systems are complex and energy intensive since textiles are brought in from all over the world. Approximately 2/3 of all clothes produced contain polyester and other plastic derivates, aka petroleum. Wherever natural fibres are used, excessive water consumption and the use of pesticides (especially in conventional cotton production) cause major issues in natural resource management. In order to produce one pair of jeans, an unbelievable amount of 7500 liters of water is necessary. Further, increased water pollution occurs due to the use of chemical substances linked to bleaching, dyeing and other chemical processes common in the garment sector.

Finally, the increasing problem surrounding the waste of such products after the clothes no longer serve their consumers. In the US alone, 10.5 tonnes of garments are thrown away every year, ending up in giant fashion dumpsters especially in the global South with the best-known example being the Atacama Desert. Clothing donations of European and American brands and resale at knocked-down prices is also affecting local markets that cannot compete with such prices in the long run.

Some progress: minimalism, tech-solutions, taking responsibility or a magic trick?

There has been some movement in the right direction. Awareness of both the social and environmental impacts of the fashion industry has reached parts of the consuming clientele. A myriad of books, movies, documentaries, talks about the dark sides of the fashion industry have surfaced in the past 10 to 15 years and many fashionistas are becoming more aware of the impacts of their purchases. On the production side, a lot has evolved too. Certification labels like GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) have gained credibility. Fair and slow fashion brands have emerged and labour conditions for garment workers have significantly improved. However, we still see a problem in the way capitalism encourages concepts like fast fashion. In her book All about love, author Bell hooks explains the hunger for consumption and its cultural incorporation as a substitute for the lack of love and spirituality in our societies. She writes: "we are endlessly bombarded by messages telling us that our every need can be satisfied by material increase".

The idea of minimalism has surfaced by a few disciplined individuals responding to the growing problems surrounding the industry. Owning less, considering needs before wants and getting creative with what you have at hand. Through social media such as Instagram, a phenomenon called capsule wardrobes has become popular. The idea being to own a limited number of high-quality pieces, preferably in muted colours, that are extremely versatile and can be combined in an endless number of different outfits.

Textiles and fabrics have also progressed in the right direction. New materials have been developed, dyeing processes have been optimised and plastic materials are being used for items such as backpacks. Through enhace efficiencies in technologies, emissions are cut and fewer resources consumed. Streamlining the manufacturing process and recycling policies have helped to lower the fashion industry's footprint.

Consumers can also share the burden by making responsible purchases. As long as there is capitalism, there will always be consumption. Smart marketing and advertising targets our emotional desires and encourages us to keep buying new. By distancing ourselves and recognizing marketing tactics we can strive to escape the consumerist trap. Instead, consider the essential pillars of a circular economy in which the aspects of reusing, sharing, leasing or repairing are prioritized. While, not as strict as minimalism, this idea supports the idea of collective forms of ownership, the value of items for longer periods of time and repurposing and recycling before replacing.